Here's this week's photo tip...
Lori Allen
Director, AWAI Travel Division
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September 17, 2008
The Right Way to Travel, Weekly Photo Tip
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THREE WAYS TO MASTER SELECTIVE FOCUS
By Shelly Perry in Portland, Oregon
Selective focus is basically what it sounds like. You select what
portion of your image you want to be in focus (while blurring out the
rest).
This technique can be used in a variety of ways and helps to bring a
sense of depth and interest to your photos. It's very useful with
close-up photos and, when done right, can give your shots a more
professional feel.
In this first example, here: http://tinyurl.com/selectivefocus, notice
that the area toward the bottom third is in focus, while all the
texture toward the top loses detail. I shot this photo at: ISO 100
70mm F3.5 1/100 sec
Selective focus is...
(continued below...)
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...a product of your exposure settings. As you can see in this shot
above, there is nothing special about the ISO (100) or the speed at
which the shot was taken (1/100 sec).
You can create this effect with point-and-shoot cameras, too. (More
on that below.)
To create selective focus, the camera settings you need to pay
attention to are the aperture size (or the opening of the lens which
is measured in f-stops) and the telephoto setting of the lens (70mm is
the maximum zoom on my lens, but yours may vary).
Now take a look at this next dessert shot, here:
http://tinyurl.com/selectivefocus (food photography, by the way, is a
classic subject for selective focus). This photo was shot at: ISO 100
55mm F4.0 1/160 sec
Notice the zoom on the lens is not quite as far out (55mm compared to
the last shot at 70mm) and the aperture is open just 1/3 of a stop
more (F4 from F3.5).
The results are similar (notice how the leaf is slightly out of focus)
but not quite as dramatic.
Here are three ways to create selective focus in your photos:
** 1) Try "stopping down." This means setting your camera to smaller
f-stop numbers. Remember, smaller f-stop numbers actually increase the
aperture, or opening, in the lens. As in the above examples, use
something between F4 and F2.8. You can get more dramatic blur if you
open up the lens (use a smaller f-stop number).
If you're a point-and-shootist, you may not be able to adjust your
aperture by dialing in a different f-stop number, but you can try
using the "macro" setting on your camera. (Check your camera manual
for instructions.) And if you don't have a macro setting, try putting
it in "portrait" mode. Again, check your camera manual.
Note: Be careful that you don't introduce motion blur when you're
practicing your selective focus. You ALWAYS want to have at least one
point in the picture that's in "perfect focus." To prevent motion
blur, try to keep your shutter speed fast enough (typically 1/60 sec
or faster) so you don't get camera shake if you are holding your
camera by hand.
** 2) Zoom in. The longer the zoom, the more dramatic the blurred area
will be.
** 3) Shoot from a low angle. Notice, in the examples above, the
perspective of the subject relative to the camera placement.
In the dessert shot, for example, notice how the side of the leaf and
the plate edge closest to the camera are out of focus, as are the
cookie and the back side of the plate. This is because they are
varying distances from the lens, exaggerated by shooting across the
plate, rather then straight down on it.
Now take a look at this last photo of a wood carver in Ecuador:
http://tinyurl.com/selectivefocus, shot at: ISO 100 70mm f2.8 1/60
sec.
Here the zoom was maxed out as far as it would go (70mm) and the
aperture, or f-stop, was at its widest (F2.8). This example lets you
see that selective focus can be used in a variety of ways, and
combined with Rule of Thirds, it becomes a very effective tool in
composition.
The point of focus in this example is the man's hands as he works his
carving. The blurred-out foreground containing the tools of his trade
gives us a bigger picture without being too distracting. Had this shot
been in focus corner-to-corner, it would have had much less impact, as
our eyes would tend to wander to all the various objects.
Practice selective focus this week -- then show us what you shot by
uploading your photo to this month's photo challenge: "How We Work."
Remember, this is your last shot at this year's $2,000 grand prize.
(Only one photo per person, per month.)
Sometimes, all this technical talk about f-stops, shutter speed, ISO,
and the rest can be confusing. But if you pick up a set of AWAI's
Photo Tip Cards, you don't have to worry. It's all written right there
on the card. Say you go to your kid's or grandkid's soccer game, for
example, and you want to know how to take good, sharp, sport shots.
Just pull out the "Sport" card and you'll find clear instructions.
They're really handy when you're figuring out which camera settings
are right for your surroundings.
Pick up a set here: http://www.thephotographerslife.com/tip/letushelp
ENTER TO WIN!
This month's photo challenge theme is "How We Work." If you have a
picture to submit, log on to our website and click on the Enter to Win
tab. (Note: First-time users need to register on the "register" link
on the right side bar first. Once you have a username and password,
click "Enter to Win" to upload your photo. Only one photo per
applicant will be considered. No purchase necessary to register.)
Photos are due by 8:00 a.m. EST, Monday, September 29, 2008.
[ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Shelly Perry from Portland, Oregon, specializes in
people photography, what she calls documentary or lifestyle portraits.
She is known especially for her imaging of children. Shelly's concern
for people is reflected both in her sense of purpose and the images
she produces. Her images have been seen all over the globe on music CD
covers, books, magazines, catalogues, web sites, ad campaigns and even
on TV. Her work has also appeared in several local exhibits and
gallery shows.]
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